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 Maintaining
Your Equipment |
| You spend a fair amount of money on
your diving equipment: BC, mask, fins, snorkel, regulator, tank, etc.
With the BC, reg and gauges/computers, you are critically dependent upon the
life-support capability of these items. By maintaining your equipment
you can continue to depend on it for quite some time. Here are some
helpful hints on various pieces of equipment. |
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Your
Buoyancy Compensator (BC) |
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Internal Care - In a salt water environment, it is
extremely important to flush all the salt out of the vest before it dries
and forms rock salt. The rock salt will cut the bladder to shreds in a very
short period of time. The vest should be rinsed internally with warm water
after each day of diving. Depress the oral inflator button and allow warm
water to flow into the vest until it is about 1/3 full. Grip the vest by the
top with one hand and the bottom with the other allowing water to accumulate
on one side of the vest only. Gather all the straps and the oral inflator
hose in one hand and move the vest from side to side allowing the water to
travel rapidly from one end of the vest to the other. Then transfer the
water to the other side and repeat procedure. Next, gather all the water to
the oral inflator side of the drain valve. Open the valve and allow the
water to flow out. Before all the water is drained, taste it. If salt is
present or the water is not clear, drain and repeat the rinsing procedure.
External Care - Rinse the exterior thoroughly in warm water, paying
particular attention to push button valves and the oral inflator, and make
certain they are operating freely. With the bladder bag vest, rinse the
zipper while moving the slide back and forth about 2" otherwise it may
freeze shut with salt corrosion. Spray it with silicone after it dries.
Spray the outside of the power inflator hose with silicone. This will help
prevent the hose from deteriorating. (Be careful to avoid spraying silicone
on plastic
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Your
Regulator |
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Clean
and inspect your regulator after your day of diving, then prepare it for the
next use or for storage. As soon as the regulator is removed from the
SCUBA cylinder, reinstall the dust cap over the regulator inlet port (the
yoke). This cap is normally attached to the regulator yoke and therefore has
been under water. Be sure to blow out the water in this cap before securing
it over the inlet port. Ensure that all O-rings are in place. As soon
as possible after diving, the regulator must be soaked in warm (not over 120
degrees) tap water, for a short period of time, to remove salt and mineral
deposits. The preferred method is to attach the regulator to a SCUBA
cylinder, open the cylinder valve and thoroughly soak both the first and
second stage regulators. Pay particular attention to directing water into
the mainspring cavity of the first stage regulator (the part that attaches
the tank), the second stage mouthpiece, and the holes in the second stage.
Depress the purge button several times while the regulator is submerged in
water. If no SCUBA tank is available, follow the above procedure, but be
very careful NOT to depress the purge button, or leave the dust cap off when
the regulator is submerged in water. Failure to do this will result in water
entering both regulator stages, which could result in internal corrosion.
Shake dry and wipe the regulator's exterior with a clean cloth. Store the
regulator in a cool, dry place with a large loop in the hoses. Do not store
in a small regulator bag, as this will damage the hoses. |
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Your
knife |
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All stainless steel knives will show some signs of rust
due to their high carbon content (carbon creates tensile strength). After
each use, rinse well with fresh water and dry outside of its sheath. Coat
with a light layer of oil or silicone. |
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Your
Dive Lights |
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A dive light is as much a part of your scuba equipment as your buoyancy
compensator (BC) and regulator. And every piece of equipment requires
diligent care and maintenance to function reliably for an extended period.
At the same time you inspect your primary gear in preparation for diving,
make sure to include your dive lights. Open the light and check the
user-serviceable O-rings, usually found around the battery compartment cap
and perhaps the bulb compartment. They should be free of debris and nicks or
cuts. If specified in the manufacturer’s material, apply a small amount of
silicone grease until the O-ring is shiny but smooth. Work the switch
and lock to confirm that it moves freely. Insert a fresh set of alkaline
batteries or fully charged rechargeables to ensure a strong beam throughout
the dive (photo 1). Test the light to make certain you’ve put the batteries
in the correct direction and the bulb is good. Lastly, attach a lanyard or
strap to fasten the light to your wrist or gear so it won’t be lost in case
you drop it. During the dive avoid dragging the light along the sandy
bottom or banging it on hard substrate. Even if you have the light strapped
to your wrist with a lanyard, carry it in one hand to prevent it from
swinging free. Afterward, soak and rinse in fresh water as soon as
possible. With the light in the fresh water, work the switches to dislodge
trapped particles. Dry the light out of the sun. Don’t open it until it is
completely dry and you are sure no water can splash inside. Remove the
batteries for recharging or replacement. Store with your other scuba
equipment. |
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In
case you hadn't noticed... |
| Here is the official Del Rio Dive
Club logo. You can right-click on it and download for wallpaper, etc. |
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"Del Rio Dive Club" and the Del Rio Dive Club logo are
copyrights of the Del Rio Dive Club. Questions, thoughts, or suggestions? Send an email to our
Webmaster
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